History and origin of the Apulian orecchiette, an icon of Italian pasta
Orecchiette , the fresh pasta shape that is a symbol of typical Apulian cuisine, are famous for their characteristic round and concave shape, smooth on the outside and rough and wrinkled on the inside, which resembles a small ear, and for their ability to capture and collect the sauce well. Traditionally, this pasta is made by hand , with a simple dough made with durum wheat semolina flour, water and salt that is worked on large wooden cutting boards and shaped with the hands and a smooth-bladed knife.
Protagonist of one of the most representative and famous local dishes in the panorama of Italian regional cuisines, namely orecchiette with turnip tops , this type of pasta seems to have been invented between 1200 and 1500. Although its origin is still shrouded in mystery, let's discover the various theories, between history and myth.
The birth of orecchiette, between Puglia, Provence and ancient Rome
Since there is no official documentation attesting to their origin, the hypotheses regarding the invention of orecchiette are mostly based on stories, anecdotes and local traditions that have been handed down over time.
Their origin is a mystery, in fact there are no documents that attest to their birth. The most remote one dates back to ancient Rome, because Varro speaks of “ lixulae ”, a type of round pasta with a concave center, obtained with flour, water and cheese.
Even the Counts of Anjou of Provence seem to have loved an original medieval French recipe, which consisted of a fresh pasta called crosets , prepared with durum wheat flour and water and with a similar shape of hollow discs in the center but thicker, larger and less refined; this shape was created because it was easy to dry and preserve during long periods of famine, but hypothetically has as its equivalent Italian dish the so-called corzetti romagnoli , or better still the cruset of the Ligurian Apennines . The name "orecchiette" instead, as well as the method of preparing this pasta, would have been definitively established and perfected later, around 1200, in the lands of Puglia. According to local tradition, among other things, the shape of orecchiette would seem to draw inspiration from that of the roofs of the trulli.
Another theory places the birth of orecchiette in Bari between the 12th and 13th centuries, when during the Norman-Swabian domination, the Jewish community, enjoying the protection of the dominant Nordic people, would have given an important gastronomic contribution to the local cuisine. In particular, the Apulian orecchiette would seem to have been inspired by some traditional Jewish sweets , above all the Orecchie di Aman, small pockets of fried shortcrust pastry that had a shape similar to that of an ear.
Curiosities about Apulianorecchiette
Whatever the origin of orecchiette, it is good to know that the name by which they are generally known in Puglia is “recchie” or “recchielle” depending on their size, but that names and characteristics vary depending on the area . Particularly famous are the so-called chiancarelle (strascenète) , with a smaller shape, the “orecchie del prete” which are larger, and finally the “strascinati” which have a more rounded shape. The typical recipes and condiments used also vary; not only turnip tops but also red ragù, rabbit ragù, tomato sauce with the addition of meatballs or strong ricotta or various types of vegetables.
Although nowadays orecchiette pugliesi are widespread and always easy to find, once they were considered the pasta of Sunday or special occasions, and were mostly cooked with a simple tomato sauce or with the addition of meat.
One last curiosity: in China there is a very similar type of pasta literally called “cat ears” - traditional video recipe -, a sort of smaller orecchiette generally served in soups and broths.
by Ivana De Innocentis
Revised, corrected and expanded by the Tumn® Editorial Team
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